Saturday, September 13, 2014

Picket Guard

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For Sufferfest 2014, we originally settled on hiking Electra Peak from Mammoth but changed our minds to the extra-remote Picket Guard Peak via Mineral King on the west side. It seemed more in line with the Sufferfest standards. It would be my third and final trip up the windy road to Mineral King for the summer. I hustled up the road after work on Friday to pick up 4 permits at the ranger station and to grab a camp site at Cold Springs. Dan, Matt, and Jack arrived later that night. 

We were hiking by 8 the next morning, hoping to make it all the way to the unnamed basin just to the northwest of Picket Guard Peak before dark. About 18 miles and 7,000' away, much of it off trail... To speed things up, we took every non-essential thing out of our packs, including tents. Without water, my pack weighed 17 lbs. 


Descending Hands and Knees Pass
We made it to the top of Glacier Pass by 10:00, to the top of Hands and Knees Pass by noon, and to Big Arroyo by 2:00 and headed north toward Nine Lakes Basin from there. The north part of Big Arroyo reminded me of Upper Basin. 
Route up Pants Pass from the Nine Lakes Basin
At Nine Lakes Basin, we took a long break and discussed the possibility of camping where we sat and climbing Kaweah Queen the next day instead of Picket Guard. In the end, we mustered up the ambition to hike up the extra loose and steep Pants Pass at the east end of the basin. From the top of the pass we caught our first views of one of the most remote area in the High Sierra. The descent was incredibly loose and steep. The basin below had no trails and practically no signs of humans having been there, besides the guy camped at the same lake 
as us. We camped under the stars at a large unnamed lake
Picket Guard Peak from Pants Pass
Lake below the peak
The next morning we got up at 5:30 and continued east toward Picket Guard. At the lake immediately below the northwest face, we paused to take photos of the sunrise and to contemplate the route. We settled on a class 3 route directly up the northwest face, though we descended a ridgeline further to the east. We paused at the summit for about 30 minutes to take pictures. A small fire could be seen across the Kern River, somewhere near the JMT. The summit register dated back to 1963



At the top
Looking east
Looking northeast-ish
Looking north
Looking north.  Kern Point is on the right-hand side.
Looking northwest
Looking west toward Pants Pass
Looking southwest toward the Kaweahs
Kaweahs
Looking south
Looking south
Hanging out at the top
Descending Pants Pass to Nine Lakes Basin
Nine Lakes Basin
After the north ridge descent, we hiked back to camp, packed up, and started the greuling hike back to Mineral King. We randomly ran into Jake and Katy Stoesz at the Big Arroyo cabin and hiked with them for a bit. We made it back to Mineral King just as it was getting dark.

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Mt. Mallory and Mt. Irvine

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Weekend trip with Nolan from Whitney Portal up to the Meysan Lake area. We originally hoped to bag Lone Pine, Peak, Mt. Mallory, and Mt. Irvine, but ended up skipping LPP because of rock fall. 

We left the TH after dinner on Thursday, and hiked ~5 miles mostly in the dark up to a small lake just below Meysan Lake (Grass Lake??). We had some difficulty actually finding the lake in the dark because it was so small. And once we did find it, it turned out that the lake was too small and dirty to filter water from, so we picked out a spot along a creek near the inlet. We heard nearby rockfall as we tried to get to sleep. 

The class 2 route up LPP that was shedding boulders
The next morning we got up planning to head up LPP. As we started out, we noticed that the rockfall we had heard was coming straight down our class 2 ascent route. We opted for an easy hike around the nearby lake basin and eventually up to Meysan Lake. We scoped out the route up to the plateau between Mallory and LeConte, which we'd ascend the next day. Nolan fished with good success. 


Nolan caught about 20 fish in 20 ninutes at Meysan Lake

Starting up the route to Mallory from Meysan Lake
Above Meysan Lake
On Day 3, we got up early, hiked up to Meysan Lake again then up the Burd's class 3 route to the saddle between LeConte and Mallory. Secor's class 2 route was covered in ice. We summitted Mallory then traversed over to Irvine. As we arrived, a party of 4 women were finishing their ascent of the northeast ridge of Irvine from Meysan Lake. Though Secor didn't mention the route, we decided to descend it. It ended up being a mix of loose class 2 and class 3 with fun route finding. The party of 4 opted for that route because apparently Burd's class 3 route up from the south end of the lake (the one we chose) was also spewing rocks during the night. Fortunately, it let up long enough for us to ascend without any issue. When we got back to camp we packed up and headed back to the car.



Nolan and Mt. LeConte in the distance
Whitney Crest from Mallory
Kaweahs from Mallory
Lone Pine Peak
The bowl between Mallory and Irvine, talus field hell.
Me and Nolan atop Irvine
Glider
Whitney Crest
Starting down the northeast ridge


Williamson in the distance
Looking back up the ridgeline toward Irvine from near Meysan Lake
Almost back to the lake